Verifying the wave model

Verifying the wave model

The results from the model hindcast have been compared with data from wave buoys deployed at various times in the past at several sites around New Zealand (shown below).

Foveaux Strait Buoy

This was located in 100 m water depth. Model results were corrected for the effects of limited fetch to the coast before comparison with the data (shown below, click to enlarge).

Mangawhai Buoy

This was located in 30 m water depth, in a site sheltered by surrounding land, and affected by refraction of waves over the seabed topography the variable depth. The shallow-water spectral wave model SWAN was used to refract the deep-water hindcast waves shoreward to the buoy site. The SWAN model grid is marked in blue on the map (shown below, click to enlarge).

Back to Wave climate around New Zealand

Research subject: Coasts